Contributors to the Cheap Dance Shoe FAQ include:
Mark Balzer
Enio Cordoba
Ann Detsch
Stan Graves
Robinne Gray
Kara Kruse
Bart McJunkin
Ken Navarre
Karen White
Sandra Lee Wollin
Lester-J Wood
Table of Contents:
Why cheap dance shoes?
Jazz shoes
Character shoes
Athletic shoes
Bowling shoes
Attaching chrome leather (suede) soles
Why cheap dance shoes?
Ballroom dance shoes are special shoes built with flexible uppers and lowers, a metal tang in the arch for support and chrome leather (suede) soles. They come in different styles suited for smooth or latin dancing, and typically cost in excess of $90. The soles are quickly ruined if worn outdoors.
While men can dance in well-fitting dress shoes with a smooth leather sole, you're still shelling out $75 or more, and many of them are overly stiff and heavy. The stiffness makes it hard to flex your foot, and will eventually cause the leather to crack and split at the points where all the flexing becomes concentrated. This will, of course, ruin your dress shoes.
So what are your options? Here are a few for us penny-pinchers:
Jazz shoes
Jazz shoes are made for jazz & modern dance. Relatively inexpensive ($25 and up) they can be purchased with rubber soles, chrome leather (suede) soles, chrome leather soles with rubber heel, and in "split soles" for the ultimate in flexibility. However, jazz shoes are not ideal for a long night of dancing. They're flimsy (no tang for arch support), flat (heel heights are about 1/4"), have little to no cushioning and the thin uppers offer almost no lateral support.
At first, Jazz shoes seem very comfortable because they're so supple, but they offer NO support--it's like being barefoot but with a small bit of extra protection. Whether they work for you or not depends on whether you need arch support. They are a reasonable choice to start out with - cheap and good for balance. But, after I started dancing 3-4 hours at a stretch, I found I need the arch support, and abandoned the jazz flats.
To give them more support, you can buy jazz shoes that are slightly bigger than your foot and then insert "athletic" insoles which have a molded heel cup and arch support. You can even add a cushioned insole under the athletic insole. This adds a lot to the comfort of the shoes without detracting from the flexibility. You would not believe the difference insoles can make in comfort over an evening of continuous dancing or spending the whole day on your feet for that matter. When using this approach with any shoe, it's best to buy the insoles first and take them with you while getting fitted.
When I first started dancing I swore I would not be railroaded into wearing heels, so I bought Jazz shoes. For dances with a lot of flat to ball steps, I find heels much easier to dance in - you're already halfway to your ball, so it's less work for your calves. After I took a Viennese Waltz class in Jazz flats, my calves were sore for two days. I also find the forward pitch of heels puts your balance forward and makes it easier to be prepared to step in any direction. I was rather shocked to find that heels were easier to dance in as I don't generally wear heels at all.
PS - did you ever realize that wrestling shoes are really split sole Jazz boots in disguise? :-)
Character shoes
Character shoes are those generic women's dance shoes that have a single strap, a fairly rounded closed toe, and a low, sturdy heel. They come in black, red, taupe and white (useful if you want to dye them to match costumes - they tend to hold up longer than the little satin shoes do). You can also get them in a t-strap. Character shoes almost always come with hard, sole-leather soles. They are named for their use in musical theatre by actors/actresses performing "in character". They are also used by tap-dancers who attach metal taps to them. Women's versions don't look quite as classy as ballroom shoes (someone once posted that "they make womens' feet look clunky"), but they're far sturdier. They feature a Cuban heel - a low (1 or 1.5 inch) heel that is wide and sturdy, unlike a spike/stiletto heel. Cuban heels are good for people who are trying to dance in heels for the first time, not only because of the lower height, but because of the greater surface area where the heel meets the floor. I like the stronger heel, the weight and durability of the sole, the toe room. They take a lot of scuffing and abuse, but I just polish them and keep dancing. My ballroom shoes feel so dainty and fragile, and when they get scuffed or nicked it's painful because they cost so damn much.
Although conventional wisdom holds that one should never wear one's dance shoes on the street, I find that leather soles perform better if they've been "seasoned" by a bit of regular street wear. That's the only way they really become like an extension of my feet. Then I make sure to wipe the soles well to remove pebbles & dust before setting foot on a nice wooden dance floor. The more you wear a pair of character shoes, the softer they become!
Capezio makes a number of styles of character shoes for men (K-370 is a very comfortable man's shoe) and women. The women's shoes are available in different heel heights, with an ankle strap available on the low heel versions and a T-strap available in the 'higher' heel (2 1/2 inch) shoes.
For beginner dancers, the slippery hard leather soles of character shoes make them a dangerous choice on a real maple floor. Remember - character shoes are primarily used in the industry by stage dancers who do tap or jazz on plywood stage floors. However, they are great for dancing in clubs: you can put them on in the car, walk in wearing them (no need for shoe bags), dance, and leave without having to worry about sidewalks, spilled drinks and dirty dance floors that would ruin suede-soled dance shoes.
Men's character shoes
I recently ordered a pair of men's character (or tap) dance shoes which I am really pleased with and I thought I'd share the info. They are:
made in USA
black, lace-up oxford style
thin, soft leather uppers
thin, sole-leather soles
very flexible, very comfortable
available in half sizes
available in medium and wide widths
built with a metal tang for arch support
and best of all, only $36.50 !!!!! (that is not a misprint - $36.50!)
These shoes are a generic but otherwise identical copy of Capezio #441 shoes which normally sell for $60. They are perfect for night club dancing in those clubs where you wouldn't want to wear "suede" soled dance shoes. In addition, they are fine for street use too, so you can wear them to and from the club, without having to lug around a shoe bag. Best of all they are only $36.50.
Order them from Kinney Dancewear in Indianapolis. Their phone number is 1-800-93-DANCE. The stock number of the shoe described above is K-401. You may bond chrome leather (suede) soles to them, as described in a following section.
Women's character shoes
My favorite character shoe is one that I order out of a catalog. It's called a "flexible character shoe" and has a low heel (tapered, not a clunky-looking "Cuban-style" heel), ankle strap, and a suede sole. They're quite soft, pliable, and comfortable (fit like the proverbial glove). Here's the info:
Flexible Character Shoe:
All leather, 1 1/2" heel
Soft flexible suede sole
Ankle strap
Medium width only
Sizes: Women's 4-10
Colors:
506B Black
506T Tan
Price: $37.00 (U.S.)
Manufacturer: Danstar Dance Shoes
The company recommends ordering these shoes one size below your street shoe size (the representative on the phone can help to size you correctly). When I slip a pair of Dr. Scholl's cushioned insoles inside, I can literally dance all night in these shoes.
Athletic shoes
Most of the English & European women wear athletic shoes for dancing Lindy-Hop. The layers of foam in modern athletic shoes really cushion your feet so that you can dance all night without discomfort. But unfortunately, you can't spin without killing your knees. Athletic shoes grip the floor too well and if you try and dance in them you run the risk of ruining your knees in spins and turns (knees are hinge joints and are not built to withstand the high levels of torsion along the axis of your leg which rotating and spinning in sneakers can produce). A top pro writes: "Many people have reported knee problems yet don't correlate the problem to the shoes. On a couple ocassions I taught in tennis shoes and my knees got beat up so bad I had to ice them."
To prevent knee injuries from occurring, you can take your athletic shoes to a cobbler and have chrome-leather (suede) soles (like on real dance shoes) bonded on, and that typically costs an extra $30. For you do-it-yourselfers, one of the best solutions that I've found over the years is to get a comfortable pair of athletic shoes that offer excellent support and then glue on chrome leather (suede) soles yourself, as described in a following section.
You can do much better than bowling shoes by gluing chrome leather (suede) soles on to athletic shoes (tennis, basketball or "court" sneakers are the most flexible styles), or to a flexible pair of walking shoes (though not cheap, the SAS brand is more flexible than most). If you often dance for 4, 5, 6 or more hours at Swing events, you will be thankful for the cushioning that these kind of shoes provide. However - they are not great for extreme inside edge work (tango progressive side step) because of the sole design. Walking shoes are built on much straighter lasts than most shoes (why are all dance shoes made with curved lasts?) and as a result they are much more comfortable and don't crowd your toes.
Capezio DanSneakers - (A bit pricy for the "Cheap Dance Shoe FAQ, but we'll include them here for now. Does anyone have a better description of these?) People have written: "For flats I wear the Capezio DanSneakers I recently acquired. The DanSneakers are great for Lindy and I highly recommend them. Don't pay $80 in a store like I did - you can get them via mail order for $60." and "Anyone actually _worn_ the Capezio dance sneakers? they felt to me like they had no arch support in them when I picked them up."
Nike "Aqua-Turf" - The $30 version of the $150 "Donnie Burns" Latin shoes designed with the foot hugging elastic upper and no laces :-) The Aqua-turf is a featherweight shoe for surfing and water skiing. Designed to dry out when wet, they have a thin elastic upper that is totally breathable. If your feet sweat a lot, these are the shoes for you! My feet, normally damp in regular shoes, stay completely dry in the Aqua-Turfs. The elastic upper fits snugly without crushing your toes or requiring a break-in period. They are as comfortable as a pair of slippers from day one. The flexible rubber footbed has molded-in lateral supports for the ball of your foot, a molded in heel cup, and a sewn-in "heel counter" to further stabilize and locate your heel. The lower is almost as flexible as a jazz shoe (you can point your toe) but has much more cushioning, so you can dance all night without pain. I only saw them in one color combination: dark grey + black. That's good enough for me. I bought 2 pairs, and with thin Dr. Scholl's insoles installed I have been wearing a pair as street shoes for months. I cannot say enough good things about these shoes. I'd love to meet the person who designed them, just to shake his hand and thank him. I llllloooooooooovvvvvvveeeeee 'em! To use them as dance shoes, grind off the tread blocks and bond on suede soles, as described in a following section.
1997 - Bad news - Nike "Aqua-Turf" shoes are no longer being made :-( Good news - cheaper versions are available from other manufacturers, but unfortunately they don't have all the features of the Nike "Aqua-Turf."
Bowling shoes
The guys in Ithaca have found a clever solution to the cheap dance shoe problem: bowling shoes. Not the ugly ones you can rent from bowling alleys, but nice modern ones you can order from bowling pro shops or catalogs. They look like athletic shoes, but have suede soles!
Expensive bowling shoe soles have hard rubber soles with a partial chrome leather (suede) attachment on the left shoe for right hand bowlers (and vice-versa) to enable sliding during the release. However, bowling alley pro shops sell shoes that are 'neutral' and have the chrome leather (suede) sole on both shoes, so they can be used by lefties or righties. These shoes have a non-skid heel. Bowling pro shops carry several brand names, and the price seemed to be around $35 a pair for all of them.
I got a pair of bowling shoes from a local bowling alley, and I love them. Because they are so comfortable and provide good protection if your foot gets stepped upon, I use them for dance practices and workshops. There is chrome leather (suede) on both shoes covering the entire ball of the foot. They do have a non-skid heel so they are not good for waltzing (makes heel leads difficult), but they are great for two step, ECS, WCS, etc. (Of course, you can bond on chrome leather (suede) over the rubber heels yourself, as described in a following section.) My pair cost about $35; they are very lightweight, and are as "stylish" as any other pair of athletic shoes. My former partner has fallen arches so he inserted arch supports in his bowling shoes and found them to be extremely comfortable as well as good support for his feet.
"One final note: in trying on various brands, I found that some of the more expensive shoes were stiffer and heavier while some of the less expensive ones, although not quite as durable, were much lighter and more flexible. I opted for a less expensive, more flexible brand and have been quite happy with my choice."
"I recently tried on two different pairs of Brunswick bowling shoes, (both pairs under $36.00) and I found them to be a rather stiff compared to a tennis, basketball or "court" sneaker, and I was disappointed with the slippery synthetic felt - VERY fast - that they used for the sole under the ball of the foot."
"I have the Dexter bowling shoes with glued-on chrome leather (rather than stitched-on), and I love them. Before buying them, I tried on some Brunswicks at K-Mart and found them to be way too stiff. My Dexters are very flexible and comfortable. I ended up gluing some chrome leather to the heels mainly to make the heel leads in waltz a little easier (the rubber heels skidded on the floor too much). My pair of Dexters cost between $30 and $35 -- definitely a smart purchase. I use them a lot for practices, lessons, and workshops."
Here are some reviews: "I danced in my new bowling shoes last night. They work great! The suede is faster than my ballroom shoes, so turns were easier, but the moment you put your heel down, you're anchored."
"This past weekend I was at a Swing event and the floor was very slow. I had a really difficult time spinning in my good, expensive dance shoes, but my $30 Dexter bowling shoes (with suede heels glued on) were just right on this floor. And I was able to dance all night because they were so comfortable."
Attaching chrome leather (suede) soles
As recommended in "The Ballroom Dance Pack" by world champion latin dancer Walter Laird, you can bond "suede" or chrome-tanned leather soles over the harder, vegetable-tanned shoe-sole leather found on what we normally refer to as "leather-soled shoes" (street shoes, character shoes, etc). In addition, I have bonded a pair of "suede" soles on to a pair of tennis shoes, and am very pleased with the results. For social dance shoes I used to have several pair of Gucci shoes (use to work there- got $365 shoes for $50). Nothing is more comfortable. Unfortunately the leather is so soft it can't withstand much abuse. You're better off going to Payless Shoes, getting a flexible $16 pair and putting the $10 chrome leather sole on. For a "social" dancer this is usually sufficient. For a top level dancer, many dress shoes don't have enough lateral support to do multiple turns safely. Women with wide toes and narrow heels may find Easy Spirit brand split last shoes (C width toe, B width heel) worth investigating.
What dancers call "suede" is actually "sueded leather." (Real suede is leather made from the skins of kids (young goats). I have heard that dance shoe soles are actually made from horse hide, but this may be urban legend - if anyone knows for sure, please email me at m-balzer@uiuc.edu). Dance shoe soles are also called "chrome leather soles" to differentiate them from the "vegetable tanned leather soles" that we are commonly found on street shoes and character shoes. The chrome tanning process alone doesn't produce sueded leather however... for instance, the uppers on your shoes are also chrome leather, and they're not (generally) sueded (though Enio does have that cool blue pair... :-)
Cobblers are not dancers. The last time I let a cobbler use his own suede stock, I got lousy suede. To prevent this from happening, buy your suede from a dance shoe company. Excellent quality Freed brand (made in England) chrome leather (suede) dance shoe soles are available for only $7 a pair from Kinney Dancewear in Indianapolis. Their phone number is 1-800-93-DANCE. They come in white or dyed black. Order them in the largest man's size available. After you bond them on and the adhesive is dry, trim them to size with a razor blade.
Cobblers use rubberized contact cement to attach shoe soles to shoes. You too can purchase this rubberized contact cement, which works fabulously! The adhesive is "Barge All Purpose Cement", made by the Quabaug Corp, North Brookfield, MA 01535. It comes in 2 oz. tubes and is sold in shoe sections of big stores.
The rubberized adhesive "Shoe Goo" was good for gluing on dance shoe soles. However, that product has now been replaced by "Shoe Goo II" which is thicker and doesn't seem to work as well for this purpose as the original Shoe Goo. Shoe Goo II, distributed by Second Wind Co., Paso Robles, Ca., 93447-2300, can be purchased at Kmart, Walmart, or even hobby and sporting goods stores for approximately $3 a tube. Each 3.7 oz. tube is enough for a couple pairs of shoes. But try to get the Barge All Purpose Cement mentioned above - you'll be much happier. It's *MUCH* easier to use than Shoe Goo, and dries almost instantly as opposed to the 24 hours that Shoe Goo requires.
When boding chrome leather (suede) soles onto athletic shoes with very aggressive sole patterns, you must grind the tread down before gluing the suede on. I used a 7" disk sander (though a belt sander would work fine) with a 24 grit sanding disk to grind down the tread on the pair of shoes I bonded the suede to. Make sure you use very coarse grit sanding disk (or belt) or you will just end up making a lot of heat and melting the rubber.
In use, chrome leather (suede) soles glaze over with the dirt and wax they pick up from the floor, so you must occasionally clean them with a wire brush, as you do for regular suede soled dance shoes. Brushing raises the nap on the soles and removes any debris that may have accumulated. You do not have to do it to excess and it should always be done over the nearest waste recepticle (NOT in the aisles or other high traffic areas where you and your partners are sure to step right into the debris you removed.) If you don't have a special wire brush made for shoes, buy a "file comb" at any hardware store.
A small amount of oil, such as Castor Oil will also help raise the nap on the soles. Do a bit of brushing after the oil is well absorbed. The Castor oil will also help to stop you from sliding on a very slick floor.
If they get really greasy and dirty, put you shoes in the freezer for an hour. This solidifies the tar and grease. Then remove one shoe at a time from the freezer and quickly clean the bottom with a wire shoe brush. Repeat as required.
If your hard leather soled shoes get grease or tar on them, you can clean the soles using #100 grit sandpaper. This takes only a few minutes and does not damage the sole. (Sand them by hand, not with a power sander.)
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If you've made it this far, you must really care about shoes and feet. If you want to learn more, check out the multi-chapter on-line guide at www.foothealth.com
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This file is part of the FAQ list for the newsgroup rec.arts.dance. The FAQ list is being maintained by Victor Eijkhout (victor at eijkhout dot net, talk about vanity), who appreciates being sent additions or corrections on the material in this collection. Copyright 1994/5/6/7/8/9/2000 lies with the maintainer and the contributors of various parts.
Listen up: Victor did not write most of this stuff; he just collected it. So don't send him any dance questions.
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It goes without saying that the maintainer of this FAQ takes no responsibility for any inaccuracies in the information presented here or for any use or abuse of this information. The maintainer is neither a doctor nor a lawyer.
Ballroom dance shoes are special shoes built with flexible uppers and lowers, a metal tang in the arch for support and chrome leather (suede) soles. They come in different styles suited for smooth or Latin dancing, and typically cost in excess of $90. The soles are quickly ruined if worn outdoors. While men can dance in well-fitting dress shoes with a smooth leather sole, you're still shelling out $75 or more, and many of them are overly stiff and heavy. The stiffness makes it hard to flex your foot, and will eventually cause the leather to crack and split at the points where all the flexing becomes concentrated. This will, of course, ruin your dress shoes. So what are your options? Here are a few for us penny-pinchers:
Jazz shoes
Jazz shoes are relatively inexpensive ($25 and up) and can be purchased with rubber soles, chrome leather (suede) soles, chrome leather soles with rubber heel, and in "split soles" for the ultimate in flexibility. However, jazz shoes are not ideal for a long night of dancing. They're flimsy (no tang for arch support), flat (heel heights are about 1/4"), have little to no cushioning and the thin uppers offer almost no lateral support. To give them more support, you can buy jazz shoes that are slightly bigger than your foot and then insert "athletic" insoles which have a molded heel cup and arch support. You can even add a cushioned insole under the athletic insole. This adds a lot to the comfort of the shoes without detracting from the flexibility. You would not believe the difference they can make in comfort over an evening of continuous dancing or spending the whole day on your feet for that matter. When using this approach with any shoe, it's best to buy the insoles first and take them with you while getting fitted.
PS - did you ever realize that wrestling shoes are really split sole Jazz boots in disguise? :-)
Character shoes
Character shoes are dance shoes with sole-leather soles. They are named for their use in theatre by actors/actresses performing "in character". They are also used by tap-dancers who attach metal taps to them. Women's versions don't look quite as classy as ballroom shoes, but they're far sturdier. I like the stronger heel, the weight and durability of the sole, the toe room. They take a lot of scuffing and abuse, but I just polish them and keep dancing. My ballroom shoes feel so dainty and fragile, and when they get scuffed or nicked it's painful because they cost so damn much. Although conventional wisdom holds that one should never wear one's dance shoes on the street, I find that leather soles perform BETTER if they've been "seasoned" by a bit of regular street wear. That's the only way they really become like an extension of my feet. Then I make sure to wipe the soles well to remove pebbles & dust before setting foot on a nice wooden dance floor. The more you wear a pair of character shoes, the softer they become until they finally feel as comfortable as a pair of slippers! Capezio makes a number of styles of character shoes for men (K-370 is a very comfortable man's shoe) and women, with the women's shoes available in different heel heights and with or w/o straps.
Men's character shoes
I recently ordered a pair of men's character (or tap) dance shoes which I am _REALLY_ pleased with and I thought I'd share the info. They are:
made in USA black, lace-up oxford style thin, soft leather uppers thin, sole-leather soles very flexible, very comfortable available in half sizes available in medium and wide widths built with a metal tang for arch support and best of all, ONLY $36.50 !!!!! (that is not a misprint - $36.50!)
These shoes are a generic but otherwise identical copy of Capezio #441 shoes which normally sell for $60. They are perfect for night club dancing in those clubs where you wouldn't want to wear "suede" soled dance shoes. In addition, they are fine for street use too, so you can wear them to and from the club, without having to lug around a shoe bag. Best of all they are only $36.50. (And even if you don't dance, these are probably the most comfortable dress shoes you'll find!) Order them from Kinney Dancewear in Indianapolis. Their phone number is 1-800-93-DANCE. The stock number of the shoe described above is K-401. You may bond chrome leather (suede) soles to them, as described in a following section.
Women's character shoes
My favorite character shoe is one that I order out of a catalog. It's called a "flexible character shoe" and has a low heel (tapered, not a clunky-looking "Cuban-style" heel), ankle strap, and a suede sole. They're quite soft, pliable, and comfortable (fit like the proverbial glove). Here's the info:
Flexible Character Shoe: All leather, 1 1/2" heel Soft flexible suede sole Ankle strap Medium width only Sizes: Women's 4-10 Colors: 506B Black 506T Tan Price: $37.00 (U.S.)
Manufacturer: Danstar Dance Shoes [This manufacture is apparently long gone. See our dance shoes page for a Jazz shoe listing.] The company recommends ordering these shoes one size below your street shoe size (the representative on the phone can help to size you correctly). When I slip a pair of Dr. Schole's cushioned insoles inside, I can literally dance all night in these shoes.
Athletic shoes
Most of the English & European women wear athletic shoes for dancing Lindy-Hop. The layers of foam in modern athletic shoes really cushion your feet so that you can dance all night without discomfort. But unfortunately, you can't spin without killing your knees. Athletic shoes grip the floor too well and if you try and dance in them you run the risk of ruining your knees in spins and turns (knees are hinge joints and are not built to withstand the high levels of torsion along the axis of your leg which rotating and spinning in sneakers can produce). To prevent knee injuries from occurring, you can take your athletic shoes to a cobbler and have chrome-leather (suede) soles (like on real dance shoes) bonded on, and that typically costs an extra $30. For you do-it-yourselfers, one of the best solutions that I've found over the years is to get a comfortable pair of athletic shoes that offer excellent support and then glue on chrome leather (suede) soles yourself, as described in a following section. "I believe that you can do very well by gluing chrome leather (suede) soles on to athletic shoes (tennis, basketball or "court" sneakers are the most flexible styles), or to a flexible pair of walking shoes (like SAS brand). If you often dance for 4, 5, 6 or more hours at swing events, you will be thankful for the cushioning that these kind of shoes provide. However - they are not great for extreme inside edge work (tango progressive side step) because of the sole design. Walking shoes are built on much straighter lasts than most shoes (why are all dance shoes made with curved lasts?) and as a result they are much more comfortable and don't crowd your toes."
Bowling shoes
The guys in Ithaca have found a clever solution to the cheap dance shoe problem: bowling shoes. Not the ugly ones you can rent from bowling alleys, but nice modern ones you can order from bowling pro shops or catalogs. They look like athletic shoes, but have suede soles! Expensive bowling shoe soles have hard rubber soles with a partial chrome leather (suede) attachment on the left shoe for right hand bowlers (and vice-versa) to enable sliding during the release. However, bowling alley pro shops sell shoes that are 'neutral' and have the chrome leather (suede) sole on both shoes, so they can be used by lefties or righties. These shoes have a non-skid heel. The pro shop quoted several brand names, and the price seemed to be around $35 a pair for all of them. I got a pair of bowling shoes from a local bowling alley, and I love them. Because they are so comfortable and provide good protection if your foot gets stepped upon, I use them for dance practices and workshops. There is chrome leather (suede) on both shoes covering the entire ball of the foot. They do have a non-skid heel so they are not good for waltzing (makes heel leads difficult), but they are great for two step, ECS, WCS, etc. (Of course, you can bond on chrome leather (suede) over the rubber heels yourself, as described in a following section.) My pair cost about $35; they are very lightweight, and are as "stylish" as any other pair of athletic shoes. My former partner has fallen arches so he inserted arch supports in his bowling shoes and found them to be extremely comfortable as well as good support for his feet. "One final note: in trying on various brands, I found that some of the more expensive shoes were stiffer and heavier while some of the less expensive ones, although not quite as durable, were much lighter and more flexible. I opted for a less expensive, more flexible brand and have been quite happy with my choice." "I recently tried on two different pairs of Brunswick bowling shoes, (both pairs under $36.00) and I found them to be a rather stiff compared to a tennis, basketball or "court" sneaker, and I was disappointed with the slippery synthetic felt - VERY fast - that they used for the sole under the ball of the foot." "I have the Dexter bowling shoes with glued-on chrome leather (rather than stitched-on), and I love them. Before buying them, I tried on some Brunswicks at K-Mart and found them to be way too stiff. My Dexters are very flexible and comfortable. I ended up gluing some chrome leather to the heels mainly to make the heel leads in waltz a little easier (the rubber heels skidded on the floor too much). My pair of Dexters cost between $30 and $35 -- definitely a smart purchase. I use them a lot for practices, lessons, and workshops." Here are some reviews: "I danced in my new bowling shoes last night. They work great! The suede is faster than my ballroom shoes, so turns were easier, but the moment you put your heel down, you're anchored." "This past weekend I was at a Swing event and the floor was very slow. I had a really difficult time spinning in my good, expensive dance shoes, but my $30 Dexter bowling shoes (with suede heels glued on) were just right on this floor. And I was able to dance all night because they were so comfortable."
Attaching chrome leather (suede) soles
As recommended in "The Ballroom Dance Pack" by world champion Latin dancer Walter Laird, you can bond chrome-tanned leather (suede) soles over the harder, vegetable-tanned shoe-sole leather used on what we normally refer to as "leather-soled shoes". In addition, I have bonded a pair of "suede" soles on to a pair of tennis shoes, and am very pleased with the results. Freed brand (made in England) chrome leather (suede) dance shoe soles are available for only $6 a pair from Kinney Dancewear in Indianapolis. Their phone number is 1-800-93-DANCE. They come in white or dyed black. You order them in a man's size 11 or 11 1/2. After you bond them on and the adhesive is dry, trim them to size with a razor blade. I spoke at length with a shoe repairman, and he sold me a tube of the rubberized contact cement that he uses. I tried it, and it works fabulously!! It's *MUCH* easier to use than Shoe Goo, and dries almost instantly as opposed to the 24 hours that Shoe Goo requires. The adhesive is "Barge All Purpose Cement", made by the Quabaug Corp, North Brookfield, MA 01535. The rubberized adhesive "Shoe Goo" was good for gluing on dance shoe soles. They have now come out with "Shoe Goo II" which is thicker and doesn't seem to work as well for this purpose as the original Shoe Goo. Shoe Goo II, distributed by Second Wind Co., Paso Robles, Ca., 93447-2300, can be purchased at Kmart, Wal-Mart, or even hobby and sporting goods stores for approximately $3 a tube. Each 3.7 oz. tube is enough for a couple pairs of shoes. But try to get the Barge All Purpose Cement mentioned above - you'll be much happier. When boding chrome leather (suede) soles onto athletic shoes with very aggressive sole patterns, it helps to grind the tread down before gluing the suede on. I used a 7" disk sander (though a belt sander would work fine) with a 24 grit sanding disk to grind down the tread on the pair of shoes I bonded the suede to. Make sure you use very coarse grit sanding disk (or belt) or you will just end up making a lot of heat and melting the rubber. In use, chrome leather (suede) soles glaze over with the dirt and wax they pick up from the floor, so you must occasionally clean them with a wire brush, as you do for regular dance shoes.
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I have chrome leather soles put on my comfortable shoes at a shoe repair shop. The charge is $10.00, so for the $4.00 it takes to put on soles that have been suggested for $6.00 plus shipping I prefer having a professional do it. I live in IA. so perhaps I have found a real bargain. Thanks for the idea of using "gym" shoes I may try that for practice shoes (not signed).
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May 25, 2006 I'd like to give you an update on some information that's in the page. The Kinney character shoes mentioned, model number K-401, has increased in price to $48.75, plus $8.00 for shipping. Glue-on suede soles are available for $8.00. I just order the shoes. Regards, John Visser
http://www.ushist.com/wardrobe/boots-shoes_ladies.htm
The most important to make your shoe last and look better is a regular cleaning and polishing them regularly.
The importance of regular cleaning is that it will remove dirt build-up that can mar the look of the leather. In fact, if uncleaned shoes are polished, it will inbed dirt particles into the grain and ruin the leather. All leather should regularly be cleaned prior to polishing.
The first step in preserving a pair of shoes is weatherproofing. Weatherproofing keeps them looking good and extends their wearability. Typically, you can get these products: mink oil, beeswax, silicon.
The most recognized step in shoe care is polishing. Polishing is an important treatment in maintaining a new appearance for smooth leather articles.The most widely used form of polish is paste polish. Also you can use cream polishes and liquid polishes:
When the color has been damaged, polishing will not restore the lost color. A polish has the ability to enhance the existing color. The lighter the color, the less dye is in the polish. In that case a spray or a instant coloring is needed to take care of the discoloring.
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SELECTING THE RIGHT PRODUCTS
POLISHES :
PASTE POLISHES: Polishes can be formulated as heavy wax pastes which provide strong coverage and add an exceptionally high and deep shine, especially when successive layers are built up on the leather. Most brands of wax pastes are not available in wide range of colors, but there are some that offer a fairly wide variety of colors to choose from.
CREAM POLISHES: Cream polishes contain lower levels of wax and are easier to apply. Creams soften and smooth the leather more than paste. The more wax in the cream polish, the more gloss and leather protection you will get. Cream polishes come in wide variety of colors.
LIQUID POLISHES: Liquid polishes contain a low level of wax or none at all. They are not buffable and provide very little replacement of natural oils to the leather. Liquid polishes can be useful in covering scuffs and providing a short-term lift to the appearance of well-worn shoes.
SPRAYS or INSTANT COLORING : A complete and easy method to use. You can choose from a wide array of colors and they provide a durable and flexible finish on smooth leather
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WATERPROOFING:
MINK OIL: Because mink oil is an oil and not a wax, it can be absorbed into leather to provide both the waterproofing properties and the leather lubricating properties that are desirable. Mink oil and products that contain mink oil are ideal moisturizing, softening and lubricating products for use on fine leather shoes before polishing, The use of these products before polishing with paste wax ensures that fine leather will stay soft and resist cracking.
BEES WAX: Beeswax provides an excellent barrier to water if it can be applied to seams and made to adhere to the leather. However, it cannot be applied over the entire shoe without being diluted with other oily ingredients. Beeswax is also sticky, tending to hold the dirt it picks up. Beeswax does not lubricate leather, and because it is hard, is not absorbed into leather. Beeswax products provide their weatherproofing properties by forming a continuous water repellent layer over the leather. This is very effective for work and hiking boots where the appearance of the article is not as important as the article being weatherproof.
SILICONES: Silicones can be purchased in a wide range of products from creams and pastes to aerosol sprays. All silicone products are highly water repellent, even in very small quantities. Oily silicone products, such as creams and pastes will often darken or stain light colored leather and also block the pores of the leather. Use a "dry" or aerosol silicone product for fine leathers. Aerosol silicone products are also useful for weatherproofing rain coats and spring jackets as well as adding longer life to canvass or leather sneakers
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CLEANERS:
The one most important thing in the care of leather is the cleaning. Of course, the traditional leather cleaner is saddle soap, which is a blend of natural soaps with waxes and glycerin. This combination cleans heavy leather well, moisturizes the leather and leaves a light wax coating which can be buffed to a soft luster. Ideal for heavy leather articles and work boots, saddle soap is rather inconvenient to use on fine leather articles.
There are now more modern formulas which provide all the benefits of traditional formula, but are based on gentle, cosmetic cleaning agents and are pre-creamed so they can be applied directly to the leather. This type of formula is ideal for use on fine leather and dress shoes to remove dirt before polishing.
1. Solvent-based leather cleaners are valuable for cleaning shiny leather. They will dissolve wax build-up without drying the leather. This product can rejuvenate a pair of shoes that has been polished many times and has developed uneven coloring.
2. Suede's may be cleaned with either a dry cleaner solvent spray or a well-formulated sneaker shampoo. Aerosol suede cleaners are convenient to use and produce a very good result. Also sneaker shampoos, as the name implies, are designed for fabric, vinyl and suede found on all types of non-leather sneakers.
3. Nubuck may be cleaned with either a dry cleaner solvent spray or a stain eraser. The eraser's special composition allows it to crumble into the leather, reaching even the toughest stains. like an eraser, it erases stain and shiny spots from suede & nubuck leather.
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HOW TO SPIT SHINE *
Spit Shine:
Spread a thick layer of paste polish over the leather to be spit shined. Allow it to dry for 5 minutes. Wrap a soft, clean cloth around your index finger so you have a smooth area on the end of your finger and dip it in water so it is thoroughly wet but not dripping (see note 1 below).
Using a small circular motion (see note 2 below), buff the dried polish with the wet cloth until a shine starts to develop. Then, still using the damp rag on your finger, apply a fine layer of polish in a circular motion and keep on rubbing lightly until a hazy shine develops. Keeping the rag damp, build up the shine with thin layers of polish applied in circles with light pressure until a glossy shine develops.
When sufficient shine has developed, use a clean, dry, soft cloth to give it a final buff and remove any last haze.
NOTE:
1. The reason you use a wet cloth is to stop the fine coats of polish sticking to the cloth and to encourage the polish to stick to the leather. You want to keep on building up thin layers of wax until you have a completely smooth surface that gives the glossy shine.
2. After the first heavy coat of polish you must use minimal amounts of polish to build up the shine. If you use too much polish, the solvent in the polish you are applying will dissolve the base you have already built up and you will have to start again in that area.
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HOW TO DYE LEATHER *
Because leather is a substance of nature and therefore of varying composition.... differing in fiber structure and porosity... no two leathers will always accept a given dye with uniform results. It is suggested, therefore, that the color chart be used as a guide and that swatches be tested before dyeing a finished article.
PREPARING the LEATHER for DYEING: In the tanning process various protective surface finishes are given to the hides. This finishes must removed before dyeing. Fiebing's DYE-PREP, applied with a damp sponge, is recommended for stripping off tanning finishes and making the leather receptive to dyes. In some cases, when the leather has a lacquer coating, a lacquer solvent should be used before using Dye-Prep.
APPLYING the DYE: After the leather has been cleaned and prepared as recommended above, apply the dye evenly using a piece of woolskin, cloth, or a dauber. An alternate method of covering large areas evenly is to spray with spray-gun or air brush. A second coat of dye may be applied if required. After dyeing, remove excess surface dye by rubbing briskly with a soft cloth.
COLOR and CONTROL: When changing for a previously dyed color, it is best to do it in two steps. First neutralize the original color with an intermediate color. Then repeat the dyeing process with the final color desired. For example:
To dye White leather to Black, bye it Green or Blue and then Black.
From White into Dark Blue, first week Black (4-1) then Dark Blue.
From White into Brown, first light Green, then Brown.
From Red into Black, first Green, then Black.
From Green to Black, first Red and then Black.
From White to bright Red, first Yellow and then Black.
From White to Dark Red, first Tan and then Dark Red.
Always let the first color dry before applying the second.
DYE MIXING for INTERMEDIATE COLORS
Fiebing Dyes may be combined to achieve intermediate colors of tones not shown on the chart. in most cases the basic rules of any color mixing apply.
For example:
Yellow and Blue = varying shades of Green.
Yellow and Red = varying shades of Orange to Red.
Red and Blue = varying shades of Deep Purple to Lavender.
Red and Purple = Wine.
Yellow and Brown = varying shades of Golden Brown or Tan.
Brown and Red = Maroon to Dark Brown.
An infinite number of color shades are possible. Mixtures can be tested on swatches until the desired color is achieved.
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HOW TO DYE SUEDE & ROUGHOUT *
PREPARING the LEATHER for DYEING: For best results before dyeing Suede and Roughout articles use Roughout Cleaner to deep clean and restore the original surface. Let dry. Also a dry cleaner solvent spray or a well-formulated sneaker shampoo can do the same cleaning before the dye. An aerosol suede cleaner is convenient to use and produces a very good result. Also sneaker shampoos, as the name implies, are designed for fabric, vinyl and suede found on all types of non-leather sneakers. The dry cleaner solvent and the shampoo to be used only with the suede renew only.
Suede's may be also be spray to renew the existing color in the event the color has only be faded and do not need to redyed. A renew color also available in diffirents shades. not cleaned with either a dry cleaner solvent spray or a well-formulated sneaker shampoo. Aerosol suede cleaners are convenient to use and produce a very good result. Also sneaker shampoos, as the name implies, are designed for fabric, vinyl and suede found on all types of non-leather sneakers.
APPLYING the DYE: After the leather has been cleaned and prepared as recommended above, apply the leather dye for restoring the damage color or for changing color to a different one. Apply the dye evenly over the entire area using a dauber.
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*Information for shining, polishing and dyeing leather provided by KIWI BRANDS and FIEBINGS COMPANY INC.
Warning: By using any of the leather dyes, sprays and preparers in the process changing or renewing the color of any articles you can't reverse the process back to the original look in the event you do not like the result. Please fallow manufactures direction and warnings before use it!
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HOW TO REMOVE INK
Important - Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings provided by the carpet manufacturer. Rugs and carpets with natural fibers and/or certain dyes may require special treatment. If in doubt contact a cleaning professional for advice/service. Also follow these General Rules for stain treatment.
Way #1:
Remove as much of any foreign material as possible by blotting with a white paper towel or scraping with a dull knife.
Apply isopropyl rubbing alcohol to a clean white cloth, white paper towel or cotton ball. If the spot extends deep into the pile use a blotting motion until the spot is removed or no color is transferred to the cloth. Do not allow the alcohol to penetrate into the backing as this will destroy the latex bond. If the spot is on the surface only, rub in one direction at a time. Never us a circular motion to remove spot as this may destroy the texture. Stop if spot is removed. If not, go to the next step.
Apply a small quantity of detergent solution to the spot. (To make the detergent solution mix 1/4 teaspoon of a hand dish washing detergent which does not contain lanolin or bleach with 1 quart of water; examples of safe detergents are Dawn® and Joy®.) Use a blotting motion to work the detergent into the affected area. If spot is being removed continue applying detergent and blotting with a white paper towel until spot is removed.
Rinse with tap water using a spray bottle, blot to remove excess moisture.
Spray lightly with water, do not blot this time; apply pad of paper towels and brick and allow to dry.
If there is still some stain on the carpet and blotting is not removing it, then moisten the tufts in the stained area with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Let stand for on (1) hour. Blot and repeat until carpet is stain free. Light will cause peroxide to change back to water so no rinsing is necessary. Apply pad of paper towels and weight down with brick.
Way #2:
Ink Stains - Ballpoint ink stains can be placed stain face down on white paper towels. Sponge with rubbing or denatured alcohol or rub detergent into stained area. Repeat if some stain remains. Rinse, then launder. Drawing ink usually cannot be removed. Try flushing with cold water until pigments are removed; rub liquid detergent into stain; rinse. Repeat process. Soak in warm sudsy water to which 1 to 4 tablespoons of household ammonia per quart of water have been added. Rinse thoroughly. Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric, with fabric safe bleach. Felt Tip or India Ink - Usually cannot be removed. Try pouring water through the stain before it dries, until pigments are removed. Allow to dry. If you notice some reduction in stain, sponge with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to dry. Rub liquid household cleaner into stain. Rinse. Soak stain (possibly overnight) in warm water to which 1 to 4 tablespoons of household ammonia have been added. Rinse and repeat treatment if necessary; launder.
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HOW TO REMOVE SHOE POLISH ON CARPET *
SHOE POLISH PASTE:
Way #1:
Scrape up with a blunt knife. Use Dry Cleaning Solvent follow by Detergent/Vinegar solution. Blot dry.
Way #2:
Sponge with a small amount of dry cleaning solvent
Blot
Mix one teaspoon of a mild pH balanced detergent (a mild non alkaline non bleaching detergent) with a cup of lukewarm water
Blot
Sponge with clean water
Blot
Seek a professional carpet cleaner in the event not happy with result.
This article has been contributed in part by Michigan State University Extension
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HOW TO REMOVE SHOE POLISH ON CLOTHING *
LIQUID SHOE POLISH:
1. Pretreat with a paste of powder detergent and water.
2. Launder.
PASTE SHOE POLISH:
1. Scrape residue from fabric with a dull knife.
2. Pretreat with a prewash stain remover or cleaning fluid, rinse.
3. Rub detergent into dampened area.
4. Launder using a bleach safe for fabric.
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GENERAL DIRECTION FOR STRETCHING ANY SHOES
Determine the specific area in the shoe that needs stretching. Apply the Dyo liquid shoe stretcher fluid to relax the leather fibers and allow stretching, with out tearing of the shoe leather. (Test a small area of the shoe to be stretched, can cause bleeding of dye in some shoes).
Directions for stretching:
Insert the bunion attachment the ones are provided into the corresponding hole in the stretcher. If the entire shoe needs more width, use the stretcher without the bunion attachment.
Insert the stretcher into the shoe and turn the handle clockwise until the stretcher has expanded against the sides of the shoe until pressure begins to show on the surface of the shoe. Next, SLOWLY turn the handle clockwise but not more than 3-4 turns.
It is best to leave the stretcher in the shoes for at least overnight.
To remove the stretcher turn the handles counter-clockwise.
Try the shoe and if more relief is needed, repeat the process.
DO NOT OVERSTRETCH
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Directions for Two-Way shoe stretching:
The Dasco Two - Way Shoe stretcher has been designed to enable footwear to be stretched over both width and length.The stretcher can be used on a left or right shoe. Supplied with adjustable corn and bunion pieces for stretching problem areas. Apply the Dyo liquid shoe stretcher fluid to relax the leather fibers and allow stretching with out tearing of the shoe leather. (Test a small area of the shoe to be stretched can cause bleeding of dye in some shoes).
Directions for stretching:
Insert the stretcher fully into the shoe (knurled and looped handles sit outside the shoe). Take up the width tension by turning the metal handle in a clockwise direction.
If length stretching is required insert the knurled into the shoe too, continue to turn the round nub until pressure begins to show on the length surface of the shoe, and also take up the width tension by turning the metal handle in a clockwise direction.
After that follow the general rules of stretching.
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Directions for stretching Western (dress or riding) boots:
Determine the specific area in the boot that needs stretching. Comes in Width stretcher and as a Vamp (instep) stretcher. Apply the Dyo liquid shoe stretcher fluid to relax the leather fibers and allow stretching, with out tearing of the shoe leather. The stretcher can be used on a left or right shoe. Supplied with adjustable corn and bunion pieces for stretching problem areas.
1: Directions for stretching the width:
Insert the Width stretcher fully into the boot. Take up the width tension by turning the handle in a clockwise direction.
After that follow the general rules of stretching.
2: Directions for the vamp:
If Vamp (instep) stretching is required insert the Vamp stretcher fully into the boot, turn the handle until pressure begins to show on the surface of the boot.
After that follow the general rules of stretching.
3: Directions for stretching bunions on boots:
Insert the bunion attachment if ther are provided into the corresponding hole in the stretcher.
Insert the stretcher into the shoe and turn the handle clockwise until the stretcher has expanded against the sides of the shoe until pressure begins to show on the surface of the shoe. Next, SLOWLY turn the handle clockwise but not more than 2-3 turns.
After that follow the general rules of stretching.
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Directions for Bunion stretching :
Bunion stretchers are used to raise specific area of the shoe to relive discomfort due to bunions and without stretching the entire footbox. Cast metal construction. Apply the Dyo liquid shoe stretcher fluid to relax the leather fibers and allow stretching, with out tearing of the shoe leather. (Test a small area of the shoe to be stretched, can cause bleeding of dye in some shoes).
Directions for stretching:
Determine the area needed to be relieved . Place a cloth over the shoe to protect the exterior leather, place the ball inside the shoe with the ring on the outside, work the problem area of the shoe, or it can be clamped in place overnight for really best results.
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Directions for stretching Toe or Vamp on shoes
For stretching the Toes upward for a shoe you need to have a Toe stretcher. A Toe stretcher will stretch the toebox of the shoe to give you more room. If you safer from a hammertoes, corns or the toes do not have room in the shoe this is the device for you.
For stretching the Vamp (Instep) upward for a shoe you need to have a Vamp stretcher. A Vamp stretcher will stretch the instep area of the shoe to give more room. If your arch is to high and the area above the arch is tight or your foot do not fit into the loafer shoe or there are pinching you on the top this is the device for you.
1: Directions for the toe:
Insert the devise to your toe area in the shoe that needs stretching. Apply the Dyo liquid shoe stretcher fluid to relax the leather fibers and allow stretching, with out tearing of the shoe leather. The stretcher can be used on a left or right shoe.
Insert the Toe stretcher fully into the shoe. Take up the width tension by turning the handle in a clockwise direction.
After that follow the general rules of stretching.
2: Directions for the vamp:
If Vamp (instep) stretching is required insert the Vamp stretcher fully into the shoe, turn the handle until pressure begins to show on the surface of the shoe.
After that follow the general rules of stretching.
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Directions for shaft or vamp stretching onWestern (dress or riding) boots:
This devices is made with high quality of heavy duty cast aluminum, used for stretching the shaft of Western, Work, or Riding boots. Relieves tightness around large calf muscle areas. This unique stretching device allow you to stretch the shaft of your boot or the instep (vamp) the same time by itself or both at once.
1: Directions Directions for stretching the shaft of your boot :
Insert the stretching device fully into the boot. Engage the calf tension and take up the excess width tension by turning the handle in a clockwise direction. Turn the handle until pressure begins to show on the surface of the boot.
After follow the general rules of stretching.
2: Directions for the vamp:
If Vamp (instep) stretching is required only insert the stretching device fully into the boot. Disengage the calf stretcher and engage the vamp stretcher.
After follow the general rules of stretching
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Directions for stretching Vamp (Instep) on any boot:
If you only have problems on Dress, Western or Riding boots with the Vamp (instep) or Toe. This device will stretch upward the Vamp (Instep) for a boot ONLY. A vamp stretcher will stretch the instep area of the boot to give more room. If you arch is to high and the area above it is tight or your foot, or and the foot do not fit into the boots or there are pinching you on the top this is the device for you.
This special devices made of heavy duty cast aluminum is the only device which allows you to stretch the tight Instep (Vamp) of the boot (Dress, Western or Riding).
Directions for the vamp:
If Vamp (instep) stretching is required only insert the stretching device fully into the boot. Disengage the calf stretcher and engage the vamp stretcher.
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Directions for stretching Toe on any boot:
When you need more room on your toes, this special devices made of heavy duty cast aluminum is the only device which allows you to stretch the tight toe box to give more toe room on (Dress, Western or Riding) boots.
If more toe room is required only. Insert the stretching device fully into the boot. Take up the width tension by turning the handle in a clockwise direction.
After follow the general rules of stretching